Friday, January 15, 2010

M1 Garand

The man in the Big Brown Truck just made my day. I placed the order with AIM on Tuesday and the rifle was delivered this morning. I'll try to let the photos do the talking.

The rifle arrived in the usual brown box, but I was surprised to find out that AIM had included a Plano Gun Guard case:



I opened the case and the first thing that hit me besides the look of the rifle was the smell of oil from the stock. My nose can't tell the difference between BLO and Tung Oil but it was a pleasant smell nonetheless. All the metal has been freshly parkerized, the barrel, gas cylinder, and stacking swivel has a nice deep blueing. This thing looks brand new. Note that the stock appears slightly more red than reality in the photos due to the incandescent lighting in my kitchen.



I was also surprised to find two like new En Bloc clips as the sales rep had indicated that the didn't ship with accessories. Also included in the case was an M1 Manual from the CMP and a warranty from James River Armory. I guess we now know who is assembling these rifles for AIM.







I've obscured the last few digits of the S/N but its a Springfield Armory receiver with a S/N of 2,139,xxx indicates that the receiver was likely manufactured in early Nov 1943.















I'll try to go shoot it on MLK day and come back with a range report. Based on what I've seen so far, I would highly recommend the AIM Garands

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Reloading for the M1 Garand





I recently ordered an M1 Garand from Aim Surplus. The man in the Brown truck should be dropping it off tomorrow. The M1 is chambered in .30-06, however, the M1 cannot be used with modern, commercial .30-06 ammunition because of excess pressure will cause the operating rod to recoil to harshly which will eventually damage the rifle. There are three workarounds:

1. Use surplus ammo. (CMP is currently out of stock)
2. Use an adjustable gas plug and shoot commercial .30-06
3. Reload your own ammo using load data that closely matches the GI M2 Ball Round pressure characteristics.



It should come as no surprise that I opted to reload.

I ordered up the following from MidwayUSA:

* Lee .30-06 Dies
* Remington Brass

The rest I picked up at Gander Mountain:

* 165 Gr Sierra Spitzer bullets
* CCI BR-2 Primers
* IMR 4064

Using data from the CMP Forums, I loaded 48 Grains of IMR 4064 and seated the bullets to 3.325" OAL.

Standby for the gun review and range report...

Reloading for the Mosin Nagant 91/30





I decided since the 91/30 was fun to shoot that I would reload for it. Using the empty Winchester brass from the range trip, I needed to acquire bullets, dies, powder, and large rifle primers.

The bores in the Mosin Nagants are nominally .308, however, the Russians tended to make them oversized. Many folks recommend reloading 7.62x54R using a .311 Diameter bullet (303 British or 7.7 Arisika). I ordered up the following from MidwayUSA:

* Lee 7.62x54R Dies
* Sierra 180 Gr SP .311 Diameter bullets

The Lee 7.62x54 recapping die comes with a .308 diameter expander, so I ordered a .311 diameter expander from a .303 British die from Lee's website for less than $5. Since I don't like paying $20 for hazardous shipping fees, I picked up the powder and primers from Gander Mountain.

* IMR 4320
* CCI BR-2 Primers (These are basically match grade Large Rifle primers)

The Lee dies were easy to set up and worked fairly well. Range test soon...stay posted.

Range Report: Mosin Nagant

With one day remaining on my vacation, I decided to brave the freezing cold and drive to the range and test out the Mosin Nagant.

Weather:
* 24F
* 5-10mph gusts directly up-range

Ammunition Fired:
* 40 rounds of Winchester 180gr FMJ @ 2580 FPS (~$20 box)
* 20 rounds of Silver Bear 185gr FMJ @ 2495 FPS (~$15 box)

Notes:
* No issues with chambering or ejecting either brand, though the Brown Bear chambered slightly easier.
* No gouges or nicks found on either brands spent brass.
* Slightly more recoil with the Silver Bear. Red coating from Silver Bear primers was found all over the bolt face.
* Target was set at ~50yds and ~75yds.
* Windage on the rifle was on. Marks on the front sight make me believe that a previous owner/arsenal adjusted it at some point.
* As expected the rifle was shooting high for both 50 and 75yds.
* Sights leave a little something to be desired for smalls bulls-eyes past 50yds need to use a target with a fairly large bulls-eye.
* Cleaned rifle after range session. Bore cleaned fairly quickly, both ammo brands seem fairly clean.
* Rifle was easy to shoot and operate while wearing gloves

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Project Mosin

I recently acquired a Mosin Nagant 91/30 from Gander Mountain for $149. The original Mosin Nagant was developed in 1891 and updated in 1930 hence the designation 91/30. During WWII over 17 million copies of the 91/30 were produced. Numerous variations of the Mosin exist and were manufactured in many different countries including the United States. The rifle below isn't my rifle but is an example




The Mosin Nagant fires the 7.62x54R cartridge. Performance wise, the round is very similar to a .308 Winchester or a 7.62 NATO



I found a 91/30 at Gander Mountain that was in really good shape. I took the rifle home and disassembled it using the instructions on SurplusRifle.com There wasn't a whole lot of cosmoline on the rifle but I managed to remove a fair amount from the metal parts using a toothbrush and a tub of Lacquer Thinner.

Once the cosmoline was removed from the action, I focused my efforts on the stock. I began by using 0000 Steel Wool and Denatured Alcohol. After scrubbing for a bit I managed to removed the old finish. I lightly sanded the stock with 220 grit sandpaper. After the stock was sanded down I rubbed on two coats of Boiled Linseed Oil.



Next I stained the stock using oil based mahogany colored stain. Two coats of stain and one more coat of Boiled Linseed Oil later later I achieved this look.



The original Mosin finish used Shellac so I applied a three coats of amber shellac and I think I managed to get the look I wanted.





Russian steel cased ammo (Brown Bear) cost $16 for a box of 20, Winchester ran $21 for a box of 20. I haven't had a chance to shoot the rifle yet, but if all goes well I'll buy the appropriate reloading supplies and dies for the round.

Monday, October 19, 2009

Reloading Components

To reload ammo you need the following components:

* Brass
* Bullets
* Primers
* Powder

Of the components, the Brass and the Bullets are the cost drivers.

BRASS

The brass can be reused until it splits, dents, dimples, etc. Occasionally check it for length after resizing to make sure its within factory spec's. If its not, you can use a Lee Case trimmer to trim it to length. You can also buy range brass from a number of sellers on GunBroker.com I believe I paid just under $40 for 500 rounds of .38 special. Alternatively, you can scrounge decent brass from your local outdoor shooting spot or friends who don't reload.

BULLETS

I typically buy bullets in quantities of 500 each. MidwayUSA.com and the other online sellers typically have better deals that locally, assuming you buy enough to offset the shipping costs vs local sales tax and markup. If you really want to shoot cheap you can use lead ammo, personally, I only shoot jacketed ammo since lead and the lead lubricant is a PITA to clean out of my firearms. I usually buy the cheapest jacketed bullets that MidwayUSA has in stock.


POWDER & PRIMERS

Try to acquire the powder and primers locally so you don't incur a $20 hazmat shipping fee from the man in the brown truck. Also be sure to store the powder and primers in a cool dry place. I keep mine in the gun safe so if something goes BOOM its somewhat contained. 1 lb of powder is 7000 grains and should be good for 1000 rounds or more.

Typically the reloading manuals will quote a specific primer i.e. Winchester Small Pistol Primer, CCI 500, etc. As far as I'm concerned the primers are interchangeable as long as you use small pistol primers where it calls for small pistol, and large rife where it calls for large rifle, etc you should be fine. Also pay attention to the magnum primer designation as well. .357 Magnum takes a small pistol magnum primer where a .38 Special takes a small pistol primer. If you can get the primers locally I would buy 2000 or so if they have that much in stock. I've had luck getting Primers from Cabelas.com

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Reloading

Recently ammo prices have gone up and I've always wanted to try reloading. Now that I have my own garage again, I figured it was time.

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I bought the Lee Challenger kit from MidwayUSA.com which came with most of what I needed to reload. I started by attaching the handle and bolting the press to the workbench with 1/4" lag bolts after reinforcing the bottom of the workbench with a scrap piece of 2x4. Next attach the plastic spent primer tube and plate to the left side of the press. Finish by mounting the primer assembly to the top of the press.

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I'll cover the various other accessories and tools as they are used. We'll start with case prep. Typically I reload handgun ammo in batches of 50 or 100.

Now its time to clean the cases. Fill the tumbler 2/3rds with crushed walnut, add a few tablespoons of polish. Let it run for about 10 minutes to mix in the polish. Don't add the polish and the brass at the same time or it will goop up inside the cases. Next add the cases to the tumbler and let it run for about and hour. After an hour dump the brass through a strainer and sift out the walnut. The walnut can be reused many many times until its dirty and doesn't clean well. Cut up a dryer sheet into four pieces and add it to the walnut and brass when you run it and it helps keep the dust down and trap a lot of the dirt.

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Begin by running the lock ring way up on the decapping die and installing a quick change bushing. Install a shellholder in the press and run the ram all the way up. Screw the decapping die down until it touches the shellholder. Run the lockring down tight against the quick release bushing. (Yes that's surface rust on the top of the decapping die. Be sure to wipe down your dies with some gun oil or silicone spray when you are done)

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Attach the primer arm assembly or the spent primers will fly out of the right of the ram instead of falling into the tube where they belong.

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Run all of the brass through the decapping die. The brass should now be resized and the primers removed. You'll notice that the primer pockets are dirty. Use the pocket cleaning tool to remove the fouling. Once the pockets are clean, its time to prime.

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Typically I prime and bell the cases in a single step. Install the flaring die and adjust it the same way as the decapping die.

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Use the Lee Primer to reprime the cases. Add 100 primers to the tray and gently shake back and forth to get the primers upright. You should be seeing the inside of the primer. Close the case and attach to the press. The white one is for large primers, the black one for small primers.

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Run the brass into the flaring die and click a primer onto the primer arm. Lower the ram all the way to the bottom until the primer seats. Repeat until all the brass is reprimed and flared. The cases should be flared just enough so a new bullet can sit in the mouth. If its not, turn down the adjustment on top until it sits. Once the cases are primed the primer assembly and primer arm can be removed from the press.

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Now its time to seat the bullets. Consult your load book for the appropriate cartridge length. Of the die adjustments, this one is the hardest. Insert a case (without powder or primer) into the shell holder and run the ram up. Screw in the bullet seating die until the die touches the case mouth. Lock down the die with the lock ring. Back the bullet seating adjustment way out. Now place a bullet on the case and run it back up the die. Screw down the adjustment until you feel the bullet start to seat. Using small increments screw down the adjustment and check the cartridge length until the bullet is the correct length. Once its set you wont have to mess with it again, unless you change bullets.

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Next, add powder to the cases. Consult your manual for the appropriate loading data. I'm loading .45 ACP 230 gr. FMJ to 1.254" with 7.0 gr of Powder Pistol. Begin by zeroing the scale then setting the scale to the appropriate measurement. Mount the powder measure to the table and add the appropriate powder. Turn the black adjustment until the measure dispenses the correct amount. For handguns, start at 0.5cc on the dispenser and adjust it as needed until it throws the appropriate charge. Note that the Lee Reloading manual will tell you the appropriate volume. For 7.0gr of Power Pistol its around 0.6cc. Make sure to run the level on the powder measure all the way up and all the way down. Once its set, I check every 10 or so rounds.

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Add powder to the case, insert a bullet in the case and run the cartridge into the seating die. Repeat until all cases are done. Now the cases need to be crimped. You can either add powder to all the cases, then seat the bullets or you can add powder and then add bullets one at a time. I prefer to do it one at a time. Once powder goes in the case it doesn't leave my hand until I insert it in the shell holder and place a bullet on top. This should keep me from double charging or squibbing a round.

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Insert the crimp die. Adjust the crimp die by running it down until it touches the shell plate. Lower the ram and screw in the die 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Back the adjustment on top off. Insert a bullet and run up into the die. Screw down the adjustment until you can feel the top of the bullet. For semi-auto rounds you don't need much crimp, just enough to close the gap. Too much crimp and the round won't properly head space in the chamber and you'll run into feeding issues. Check to ensure the round feeds into the magazine and check to ensure the round feeds into the gun.

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Additionally, Lee Precision has many instructional videos that help out and are easier to understand than the instructions.